Camino del Norte Walking Guide

There is more than one way to walk the Camino de Santiago. Currently, there are nine official routes to get to the cathedral of Santiago, which can be done on foot, cycling or on horseback. In this article we talk about the Camino del Norte, perhaps the most enjoyable and beautiful of all, as it combines coast, rural areas and some lively cities, such as San Sebastian, Bilbao and Santander. However, keep in mind that it is also one of the most physically demanding, as we explain in this article.

The Northern Way starts in Irún and ends in Santiago de Compostela, crossing provinces and regions with a variety of traditions, gastronomic specialities, landscapes, and most of the time, the Cantabrian Sea on your right.

It is less crowded than the pilgrims who travel along the traditional French Way, and it is very popular in summer because of the mild climate of the Atlantic coast. You will have plenty of opportunities to strike up conversations with other pilgrims. It is a Camino you will always remember!

 

 

History of the Camino del Norte

The Northern Way gained importance in the early Middle Ages, particularly in the 9th and 10th centuries, after King Alfonso II promoted the pilgrimage to Santiago among European royalty. It became the preferred route for pilgrims coming from northern Europe, as it was the safest, avoiding conflictive areas south of the Cantabrian mountain range due to the conflict between Christians and Muslims.

Under the orders of the monarchs of the kingdoms of Asturias and Castile, several monasteries, churches and hospitals were built, such as Santa María de Valdediós, San Salvador de Cornellana, Zenarruza or Sobrado dos Monxes, to welcome and help pilgrims. Many of these buildings are still standing and continue to welcome pilgrims, whatever their motivation for doing the Camino.

Today, the Camino del Norte is the third most popular Camino in Spain, because many people are attracted by the mild summer temperatures and the option of taking a dip in the sea at the end of a long day.

 

Location

The Northern Way follows the Atlantic coast, crossing the provinces of the Basque Country (Euskadi), Cantabria and Asturias. It is when you reach Galicia that you head inland, looking for the most direct route to Santiago.

Along the Way, you will pass through cosmopolitan cities such as Bilbao, San Sebastián (Donostia), Santander, Gijón and Avilés, and a host of charming fishing villages and hamlets such as Zumaia, Llanes, Ribadeo, Markina-Xeméin, Baamonde and As Cruces.

 

Map

 

Starting & End Points  

The Northern Way starts in the small town of Irún, in the Basque Country, right at the bridge over the Bidasoa river that separates Spain from France, and ends in Santiago de Compostela, capital of the province of Galicia, in the northwest of the Iberian Peninsula.

 

Distance and Walking Length

The Camino del Norte is divided into daily stages of between 20 and 30 km. The entire route covers about 825 km, with notable differences in altitude depending on the area. You can expect daily ascents of between 300 and 800 meters.

Difficulty

The Camino del Norte is considered one of the most demanding Caminos due to the continuous changes in the terrain, some considerable ascents and long stages on tarmac roads, something that can tire even the most experienced hiker. Below you will find the difficulty of each province:

Basque Country/Euskadi
This first part of the Camino is the most hilly, both up and downhill, following a steep coastline and crossing mountainous areas. A minimum level of fitness is recommended in order to enjoy the route.

Cantabria
This section is less demanding in terms of ascents and descents, although the terrain is still undulating. What can be more tiring here are some long stretches on roads and in urban areas.

Asturias
Asturias is known for its dramatic scenery, both along the coastal cliffs and in the mountainous interior. The Camino mostly follows the coast, from beach to beach, but at some stages, there are also considerable ascents and descents. Several sections follow fishermen's trails and unpaved rural roads, something your feet will be grateful for.

Galicia
When you reach Galicia, the terrain becomes less demanding, with slight undulations. The Camino enters rural landscapes and lush forests where silence reigns. Arriving in Arzúa, the Northern Way joins the French Way for a great final stage to Santiago de Compostela.

Route

Start in Irun, on the border with France, and travel through the Basque Country along its rugged coastline, through green forests and rural areas dotted with typical Basque farmhouses. When you spend the night in San Sebastian, don't miss the opportunity to go out for a pintxo-pote (tapas with a drink), and mingle with the locals.

After a few days, the Camino del Norte takes you into the provinces of Cantabria and Asturias, where the level of difficulty becomes more gentle. Again, you enjoy coastal landscapes and medieval villages, but you can't avoid asphalted and aesthetically unpleasant stretches due to industrial constructions. You can always take public transport and avoid them if you think they will spoil your experience.

These unattractive stretches are balanced out when you get back to the coast, where you share green meadows with cows grazing alongside cliffs overlooking the Atlantic sea - idyllic! Once in Asturias, on a clear day, you will have the chance to see the grey, barren peaks of the Picos de Europa, and even some snow in early summer.

By the time you reach Ribadeo, you will have been walking for about 25 days, on the border with Galicia. It's time to put away your swimwear, here the route takes you inland.

One last effort! This is the last stretch, inland, through forests and over undulating terrain. It is not so demanding, but after nearly a month, the strain may be taking its toll. When you reach Arzúa, everything changes. In the village you meet the pilgrims who follow the French route. Whether you believe it or not, here you will feel an energy, a kind of force that pushes you from behind to help you reach Santiago, along with all your fellow pilgrims.

Suddenly you're on Monte do Gozo, from where you can see the cathedral of Santiago, only 4 km away. Stop and enjoy the moment and, when you're ready, cross the city and celebrate the Camino in the Plaza del Obradoiro.

Sections of the Camino del Norte

On many occasions, the Camino is divided into sections according to how easy it is to reach each of the points, most of the time coinciding with large towns or cities.

From Irun to Bilbao
7 Stages, approx.

Get to know the coastal towns of Irun, San Sebastian (Donostia) and Zarautz and immerse yourself in Basque culture in Markina-Xemein or the city of Bilbao. The routes in this area are diverse and spectacular, along coastal paths, through forests, vineyards or ascending and descending hills. It is a pleasure to arrive at the end of each stage to enjoy the Basque gastronomic culture.

From Bilbao to Santander
5 Stages, approx.

Here pilgrims are tested on their orientation skills, as many seek unofficial routes in order to avoid stretches of road that are unsignposted. We recommend you follow the official route because this short stretch connects two large towns, diminishing the options for contact with local and rural life, but it is a necessary stretch to make progress, and one that will test your resilience.

From Santander to Gijón
8 Stages, approx.

You leave the city and return to the countryside for a week. This stretch is beautiful, passing through medieval villages with many options for a swim at one of the beaches. When you reach Villaviciosa, you can choose to continue towards Gijón or take a detour to Oviedo, as many pilgrims do, to visit the pre-Romanesque churches of Valdediós or the cathedral of San Salvador de Oviedo, the origin of the entire pilgrimage to Santiago, especially the Primitive Way.

From Gijón to Ribadeo
7 Stages, approx.

After leaving the bustling city of Gijón, it's time for another city, Avilés, and its post-industrial landscapes. In less time than you think, you will be strolling along passing farm animals grazing by the sea - sometimes, they seem to wink at you as you pass!

From Ribadeo a Santiago
10 Stages, approx.

The last section begins with a transition from the coastal landscapes to the leafy interior of Galicia. Time to say a final goodbye to the sea, and gather your strength for the last stretch. More villages, some with cathedrals or monasteries that are worth a visit, as in Mondoñedo or Sobrado dos Monxes, as well as, forests, gentle climbs and descents, and you reach Arzúa, where you will join the pilgrims who follow the route of the Camino Frances, and together, in one or two days, your goal, the Plaza del Obradoiro and the Cathedral of Santiago.

Weather and Best Time

The Camino del Norte is a good option from spring to autumn, and is the best alternative to the French Way for the warmer months. Temperatures in the Atlantic mountain range are mild, and few days exceed 30º.

During the winter months, it should be noted that the weather is variable in the north, so pilgrims have to be prepared for both sun and rain.

Getting There

Where you begin the Camino del Norte depends on how much time you have. You could start at the very beginning in Irún, or further along at Bilbao, Santander or even as close as Gijón. Some pilgrims can not do it all at once and pick up some time later from where they left off.

We detail below how to arrive by public transport to Irún, where the Camino begins.

If you are travelling long distance, you will probably land in London, Paris or Madrid. From there you can take a flight to San Sebastian airport, the closest airport to Irun. There are also good connections to Bilbao or Santander airports, which, despite being a little further away, have good transportation links to Irun.

By train
Major cities such as Paris, Madrid and Barcelona offer direct train connections to Hendaye (FR) and/or Irun (ES). You can consult the website of Renfe (Spain) or SNCF (France).

By bus
There are an abundance of bus companies from all over Europe that can take you to Irun. The most well-known companies are ALSA, Eurolines, Flix, Ouibus, etc.

Best places en route

1. Canal beach, Gulpiyuri beach and Cuevas del Mar beach. To see them, you only have to take a 3 km detour from the Camino towards the Asturian coast, between Llanes and Ribadesella. It is a bit more walking, but it's well worth the effort to get to this stretch of the Asturian coastline.
2. Santillana del Mar, a picture postcard town. It is known by the phrase 'Santillana del Mar, neither is holy, nor is it flat, nor does it have a sea'.
3. San Sebastian, a must-visit city for strolling around the city centre and dining out with a vast variety of tapas available. So much that you may find it rather difficult to choose which one to have next.
4. Markina-Xemein, an authentic Basque village with a wealthy local culture. On arriving in the village, enter the Chapel of San Miguel de Arretxinaga, a chapel with a curious base, a hexagon, built around 3 dolmens.
5. Avilés: Despite a mix of old and post-industrial buildings, Avilés is surprisingly beautiful, not to mention, Woody Allen's favourite city.
6. Sobrado dos Monxes, a small village in a valley surrounded by forests with an impressive Baroque monastery.

 

Top tips for pilgrims walking the Camino del Norte

1. The best moment of the day is when, after a couple of hours walking, a bar with the best coffee and the best tortilla tapas appears, strategically placed. For non-vegetarians, we recommend the chorizo omelette.
2. Do not forget to take your pilgrim passport to get it stamped at each stage in order to prove you are a real pilgrim.
3. Do not carry more than you need in your backpack. In this other article we help you to prepare your backpack for the Camino.