Camino Portugués Walking Guide

 

The Portuguese Way is the second most popular route to Santiago and the most versatile Camino, as it gives you the option of choosing between an inland route and another along the coast, being able to change from one to the other halfway along the way. And at one point, it even offers a third option, the Spiritual variant, making part of the journey by boat. Another attraction of this Camino is that it passes through two different countries, which allows you to see differences in culture, gastronomy and even in the character of the people as you make your way to Santiago.

But something that especially characterises the Portuguese Way is the low difficulty of the routes as it is the flattest Camino, with no steep ascents or descents. If you want to make sure you take the flattest route, on the camino Portugues coastal route the gradient will be almost unnoticeable.

 

 

The History of the Camino Portugues

The Portuguese Way began to gain importance in the Middle Ages, after Portugal's independence, when several representatives of the Portuguese nobility made pilgrimages to Santiago out of devotion to the Apostle. We know of the pilgrimages of Isabel of Portugal, who asked to be buried in Coimbra with a pilgrim's walking stick; or of King Manuel I of Portugal who, in 1502, took a lamp to the cathedral of Santiago so that it would be lit day and night. But communication between Galicia and the Portuguese lands had already been established since Roman times for commercial and cultural reasons, so that pilgrims, traders and travellers have shared the road for centuries.

Like the other routes to Santiago, the Portuguese Way suffered a decline from the sixteenth century onwards. It has been thanks to the impetus of pilgrims' associations and other institutions in Galicia and Portugal that, today, it is the second busiest Camino, offering a network of highly attractive accommodation and other services for pilgrims.

 

Location

The Portuguese Way runs from south to north through the west of Portugal towards Santiago, starting from the cities of Lisbon or Oporto. In its inland variant, you will cross the Miño River, bordering Galicia, by crossing the International Bridge of Tui. If you opt for the coastal variant, you will have to take a ferry to A Guarda. The two routes meet again in the town of Redondela, from where you will walk through the interior of Galicia until you reach Santiago.

 

Map

In this map you can see the routes of the Portuguese Camino.

  

Starting & End points

The Portuguese Way usually starts from the Cathedral of Lisbon or from Oporto, shortening the days of the route considerably. From Oporto you can start from Carlos Alberto Square, in the historic centre of the city, or a little earlier, from the Cathedral Tower in Lisbon, the start of the coastal route. The end point of the Portuguese Way is the Cathedral of Santiago, located in the Plaza del Obradoiro in Santiago de Compostela.

 

Distance and length of stages

The longest option, starting in Lisbon, means 620 km (385 miles) of pilgrimage, usually divided into about 28 stages.

The other option is to start in Porto, from where we have 240 km (150 miles) to Santiago, and is usually done in 11 stages on foot. If you decide for the coastal variant, in 8 stages you can walk the 194 km (120 miles) that separate Porto from the cathedral dedicated to the Apostle.

Finally, you have the option of the Spiritual variant once you arrive in Pontevedra. From this city, you have 73 km (45 miles) and 4 stages to Santiago, one of them by boat!

If you are looking to do the last 100 km (62 miles) of the Portuguese Way and get La Compostela, the most common is to start in Tui and in 6 stages to get to Santiago.

 

Difficulty

The Portuguese Way is of low difficulty, as it runs along regional roads, paths or wooden footbridges. It is known for being rather flat, especially the coastal route, and without steep ascents. However, the cobblestones on the inland route or the long stretches of road on the coastal route will take their toll on your feet after days of walking. Special care should also be taken on roads without hard shoulders, which, although not hectic, are shared with cars and other vehicles.

You needn't worry about signposting, as all three routes are full of arrows and easy to follow without getting lost.

 

 

Route 

Most pilgrims start in Porto although the Camino officially begins in Lisbon. Originally it climbed through the interior of Portugal to Tui, but in recent years the coastal variant has become more important because it is flatter and because you can enjoy a sea breeze on the hottest days.

Central Portuguese Way

The Central Portuguese Way starts in Lisbon. If you have not visited the city before, we recommend an extra night before starting the Camino and walking through the narrow, sloping streets of the old part of the city. From here, and after leaving the urban surroundings, several stages await you through rural areas with a rich wine tradition. On the way you will pass through the medieval village of Santarém, where you can visit an impressive gothic cathedral.

In about 6 stages you reach Coimbra, home to one of the oldest universities in the world. If a night out at a restaurant fits into your plans and budget, treat yourself to a plate of cod with a cream dessert on one of the terraces overlooking the river.

The next section links Coimbra with Porto, a key city on the Camino. We continue through fertile valleys, vineyards, towns and villages. Once in Porto, it's time to decide whether to stay on the inland route or head for the coast. Continuing inland, you will be able to see the Atlantic at first, but in a few kilometres, you will be heading inland.

Another 6 stages separate you from the border with Galicia. If you want to extend your stay in Portugal, we recommend spending the night in Valença do Minho and crossing the International Bridge over the Miño River the next morning. Otherwise, you will spend the night in Tui, the first stop in Galicia. Take advantage of the afternoon to see the architectural details of Tui Cathedral.

Once in Galicia, the landscape begins to change, introducing a little more elevation gain and mountainous landscapes, but without abruptly increasing the difficulty of the routes. After Gándaras de Budiño you will notice that silence and the sound of birds will invade you. You will be walking in the middle of nature.

Padrón is also an important point on the Portuguese Way since, according to legend, the remains of the Apostle arrived in a stone boat to Iria Flavia, right next to Padrón. But it is also known for housing the humble tomb of Nobel Literature Prize winner Camilo José Cela, under an olive tree in the cemetery.

And there's not much left! The last stretch is characterised by eucalyptus and oak forests (Carballos in Galician), together with a gastronomy rich in seafood and the typical Galician empanadas. Let yourself be surprised by the stretch of forest just before entering Santiago when, after crossing several viaducts, you no longer expect a return to nature.

Portuguese Coastal Path

From Porto, you can opt for the Portuguese Coastal Route. This stretch is perfect if you like seascapes, beaches and fresh Atlantic breezes. The route passes through fishing villages such as Vila do Conde and Viana do Castelo, where you can enjoy typical fish dishes and fresh seafood.

Once in Galicia, in A Guarda, the Coastal Route heads inland. From here, you will follow it parallel to the coast, passing through villages, towns and the city of Vigo, mixing stretches of beaches and cliffs with urban and rural areas. As you enter Vigo, the signs suddenly disappear and you have to cross an industrial area, which you can avoid by taking a bus. Leaving the city from the north is much more pleasant.

 

When you reach Redondela, you will be joined by pilgrims from the Central Way, and together you will walk towards Santiago. On this last stretch you will cross Galician forests, passing through several towns and villages. It's time to taste a Galician octopus and other local delicacies, because you deserve it!

The Spiritual Variant

The Spiritual variant of the Portuguese Way is a less crowded route, but with a lot of charm. It deviates from the main route at the height of Pontevedra and offers a different experience, perfect if you are looking for tranquillity and nature. One of the most special spots is the monastery of Armenteira where you can enjoy absolute peace and quiet. And the next day the ‘Ruta da Pedra e da Auga’ awaits you, a path next to a river full of old mills.

But the highlight of this Camino is the stretch by boat along the Arousa estuary, following the same route that, according to legend, the remains of the apostle St. James followed. Undoubtedly, a different and meaningful Way. When you disembark in Padrón, you will join the pilgrims who go up the main route, and together you will reach Santiago.

This section of the Portuguese Way is the perfect option if you do not have much time, as in 3-4 stages you get from Pontevedra to Santiago.

 

In the different routes, it is worth highlighting the work that has been done to ‘hide’ the industrial areas, changing factories for nature and offering a much more pleasant route.

 

Accommodation

The Portuguese Way has a good network of quality hostels and accommodation, especially between Porto and Santiago, the busiest part of the route. It is a bit more difficult to find good value accommodation on the first part, between Lisbon and Coimbra, but in general, the quality of accommodation on offer is good.

 

Weather & Best Time

The Portuguese Way can be done perfectly well at any time of the year as it covers a long distance from south to north. Keep in mind that the closer we get to winter, the rainier days and low temperatures we will find in Galicia, and in summer high temperatures in the centre-south of Portugal, which can be unpleasant on routes with little shade.

As with the rest of the Caminos, the best time to do the Portuguese Way is spring and autumn, ideally starting in Lisbon in spring so that, as summer approaches, we move up in latitude, encountering cooler temperatures.

 

Getting There

By plane

There are several national and international flights to Lisbon or Porto, so it is easy to get there by plane. 

From Santiago, you will find several national and international flights, and you can also check the airport of A Coruña, less than 1 hour away by car.

By train

The cities of Porto and Lisbon are inadequately connected by train from Spain, as there are practically no direct trains. It is better to opt for plane or bus, regretfully.

If you plan to start in Tui for the last leg of the Camino, you can take a train from Porto to Valença do Minho. Once there, cross the border and arrive, in less than 5km, in Tui. You can do it on foot or hire a taxi.

By bus

There are more direct options from Spain or larger European cities by bus than by train, although to get to some points, such as Coimbra, you will have to use both bus and train. 

We recommend using www.rome2rio.com to see the possible combinations by public transport.

 

5 Places you cannot miss

1. The cathedral of Tui, in Romanesque style but with later renovations in Gothic style, among others. The building is hidden in alleyways and is difficult to see in its entirety, but the entrance arch and the interior of the building are also worth seeing.
2. The village of Barcelos, known for being the birthplace of the legend of the cockerel, one of the symbols of Portugal, and an obligatory stop on Thursdays, as you will enjoy the weekly market, well known in the area.
3. Redondela, one of the most welcoming villages with a reputation among pilgrims. Perfect for mingling with locals in the afternoon, while tasting the tapa that accompanies any drink.
4. Caldas de Reis, for lovers of thermal baths. In the middle of the village, you will find the Fuente das Burgas or the Lavadoiro Termal, where you can soak your feet in hot water and rest after the day's walk. The botanical garden is also a nice place to relax in the afternoon.
5. Monte Santa Trega, in A Guarda. From the top of the hill, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the Atlantic Ocean, the mouth of the Minho, and the border between Spain and Portugal. In addition, there is an ancient castro that adds a historical touch to the site.

 
Top tip for pilgrims

The Portuguese Way is, without a doubt, the easiest Way to Santiago. If you want to get started on the pilgrimage but are afraid of the difficulty, this is the best option. The gradients are not ever so steep, there is a good network of accommodation and good public transport options if you are unable to walk one day. So that the temperatures do not spoil it, avoid the south of Portugal in the summer months, and be prepared for the occasional rainy day in the north.