8-day French Way of St James Walking Holiday (Part 2)

Ariive in Aumont-Aubrac. The heart of the old town was formerly surrounded by ramparts. The old town has preserved houses of the 16th and 17th century with sculpted stone facades. Just up the road is a "Laigouile" outlet store. This famous French family firm that are based only a short drive away, make handmade knives and other items such as pens. They are not cheap, but make excellent presents. Just do not forget to put them in your hold luggage if you are flying out!

Today and continuing tomorrow, the landscape changes completely as you reach the higher parts of the GR65. You come out of the fairly benign woods and fields of the previous walking stages into a wilder windswept moorland, with peat, laced with winding ribbon streams, drystone walls and huge boulders: some plonked into fields with glacial melt after the last Ice Age, and others moved by ancient man. There are some tiny fields reflecting a time of land sub division and hardship. In the winter the wind howls through the landscape and it becomes a cross country skiing playground. You will spend the night in tghe cute village of Nasbinals.

Challenge: 26 km, 360 m ascent, 230 m descent.

Today is your last real day in the high grasslands and transhumance areas. You pass the highest point of the whole 750 km between Le Puy‐en‐Velay and St Jean Pied‐de‐Port (1366m) just before the historical village of Aubrac, and then start to descend into less wild territory, and a very pleasant village to end with, Saint-Chély d’Aubrac.

Challenge: 16 km, 200 m ascent, 550 m descent. 

From Saint-Chély you start descending to the superb Lot Valley. You will come by Saint-Côme-d’Olt, one of “les plus beaux villages de France” (an official accreditation in France) along the Lot River. Its old quarter has a distinctive medieval feel. From Saint-Côme-d’Olt you will continue to Espalion, also along the Lot River. Espalion has a picturesque medieval bridge over the Lot and a lovely river front: the buildings with characteristic wooden balconies, used to be old tanneries.

Challenge: 22 km, 330 m ascent, 715 m descent.

Today’s walk continues along the Lot Valley where many more beautiful sights await. The beautiful chapelle Saint Pierre of Bessuéjouls is one of the oldest along the route and has a 11th century chapel in the bell tower. Your day will end in Estaing, another spectacular sight with its impressive castle welcoming pilgrims from the distance. Strolling its quaint medieval streets you’ll feel like you are going back in time.

Today is a straightforward walk and although there are some potentially muddy paths, there is a lot of road walking on quiet tarmac roads, so if you have training shoes you might consider wearing them instead of heavier footwear. Most the steep climbing is completed early on so that you can enjoy great views across the hills as you gain the plateau heading for Golinhac. Although this is a short day and you will probably make it to the bar / restaurant in Golinhac by lunch time, if you want to later start we recommend that you bring supplies from the little supermarket and the bakery in Estaing.

Either ask the accommodation for a packed lunch, or get something from the shop, Espeyrac and Senergues also have bars, small shops although often with limited opening times. From Espeyrac the GR65 crosses the Daze and Tayrac, minor rivers to visit the old pilgrims village of Senergues with its fortified chateau and beautiful little church, then climb onto the rolling plateau of Campeux to arrive at a most notable place on the Way of St James, the town of Conques. It is quite a straight forward day about 80% on minor tarmac roads, but the path sections can be muddy and the descent into Conques is quite steep and stony, but does not go on for too long.